begining the 92 beater build up

[dtrailtaco]

well I picked up a beater to start building last weekend. Came with a rebuilt 22RE so i will be attempting to install it this weekend and get it running. Is there anything little tips I need to know before doin this. I have read endless counts of write ups and have the haynes book and a fsm downloaded for a 85 pickup. I thought I would just check for input from people that have done this before :D. It looks pretty straight forward and just install the clutch and get the valves close to spec then re adjust after it has been run. this is my first time messing with the 22re I just want it to go as smoothly as possible LOL..


and the plan later on down the road is to SAS it with trail gear kit i just cant decide on which springs either 3" or 4". will probably end up with 35's or 36's for now. i am leaning towards the 3" and just cutting if needed. then probably do chevy's in the rear. but that will be later down the road when i get the money. and then wheel is till the wheels fall off, put the wheels back on and wheel it some more :D


thanks for any input guys...it is greatly appreciatted :)

[BeaterToyota]

well I picked up a beater to start building last weekend. Came with a rebuilt 22RE so i will be attempting to install it this weekend and get it running. Is there anything little tips I need to know before doin this. I have read endless counts of write ups and have the haynes book and a fsm downloaded for a 85 pickup.


and the plan later on down the road is to SAS it with trail gear kit i just cant decide on which springs either 3" or 4". will probably end up with 35's or 36's for now. i am leaning towards the 3" and just cutting if needed.

Nice. This is Paul's truck, aka Jeff's old truck?

When I pulled the head on mine, everyone said to leave the intake and exhaust manifolds installed and pull all of it from the block as the same time. When you install the engine, I would suggest installing the manifolds first. Some of the bolts to some of the water and exhaust pipes are next to impossible to reach up against the firewall.

I have T-G 3" springs and fit 36"s on my '88 with no problems. Pennsyltucky Eric had the same lift on his '94 with 37"s.

[dtrailtaco]

Nice. This is Paul's truck, aka Jeff's old truck?

When I pulled the head on mine, everyone said to leave the intake and exhaust manifolds installed and pull all of it from the block as the same time. When you install the engine, I would suggest installing the manifolds first. Some of the bolts to some of the water and exhaust pipes are next to impossible to reach up against the firewall.

I have T-G 3" springs and fit 36"s on my '88 with no problems. Pennsyltucky Eric had the same lift on his '94 with 37"s.

yeah it's paul's truck and man he did a good job on the engine rebuild as far as i can tell. he did as much as possible with the engine on the stand so the the manifold is already on just got to bolt it up to the flange. I was just goin to double check alll the torque specs though i am pretty sure paul got it it all ready. I am just goin to check a lot of torque settings before i put it in.

yeah i was leanin towards the 3" ones thanks for the input man I appreciatte it.

[Eric_N]

Id assemble the whole thing on the stand and have the wiring harness that goes onto the ecu sitting on top of the engine when you put it in, so that way thier isnt much more assembly when you get the engine in. Also, leave the tranny supports that bolt to the block loose so that when your bolting the engine to the tranny you can get all of the bolts in the bellhousing lined up and then snug it all up. I learned that when trying to wrestle a trans with dual cases in.

[Rover]

Also, leave the tranny supports that bolt to the block loose so that when your bolting the engine to the tranny you can get all of the bolts in the bellhousing lined up and then snug it all up. I learned that when trying to wrestle a trans with dual cases in.

yes, that really sucked. and dont let some retard kid ream the holes out with a burr :wtf:

[dtrailtaco]

Id assemble the whole thing on the stand and have the wiring harness that goes onto the ecu sitting on top of the engine when you put it in, so that way thier isnt much more assembly when you get the engine in. Also, leave the tranny supports that bolt to the block loose so that when your bolting the engine to the tranny you can get all of the bolts in the bellhousing lined up and then snug it all up. I learned that when trying to wrestle a trans with dual cases in.

good to know, yeah I think pual has the harness all ready to go and plug into the ecu and put it under the dash, but that was the kinda info I am looking for, stuff to make then install run smoothly. thanks

[ptrautne]

good to know, yeah I think pual has the harness all ready to go and plug into the ecu and put it under the dash, but that was the kinda info I am looking for, stuff to make then install run smoothly. thanks

Yup the engine is just about ready to go.

[amgraham]

:postpics1:

[ptrautne]

:postpics1:
http://home.comcast.net/~paul.trautner/TFS/UntitledAlbum/s5030865.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~paul.trautner/TFS/UntitledAlbum/s5030890.jpg

Pictures from when at my house

http://home.comcast.net/~paul.trautner/TFS/UntitledAlbum/

[dtrailtaco]

hahah yeah that is pretty much it for right meow :D

[94krawler]

I have T-G 3" springs and fit 36"s on my '88 with no problems. Pennsyltucky Eric had the same lift on his '94 with 37"s.

Yeah it cleared 37's NP both the krawlers and ptibulls and 38.5's barely rubbed but the bottom of my fender was trimmed and the seem beat back flat. No cutting to the inner fender though just some hammering. I run 39.5s now and added a 1 inch BL.

[dtrailtaco]

nice.

well i got the old block out this weekend. spent most of saturday getting stuff together and putting up a winch (that my grandpa had lying around) in the shed/garage were we will be working on the truck. man that was work it.it was a lot easier with the winch. taking the old motor out and takin the new one out of the bed:D now i just need to

1)put the plate off the back of the old motor onto the new one.
2)install clutch and flywheel and i should be good to go. to at least get the motor betweent the rails.

then adjust the vavles and drive it over rocks and such :D

[dtrailtaco]

well i got the plate off and the motor was ready to go but then i checked the pilot bearing already installed and it had a little surface rust on it and i couldnt get it spinning freely when i checked so since i had another one i figured i would just swap it out to be on the safe side. so i tried the grease method and it started to work then the grease just pushed its way through the bearing itself. so now i have to go rent or buy a little bearing puller to get that sucker out. and guess what after all that grease it spins now LOL.. i shouldve left it alone o well.

so not much progress yet.

[Eric_N]

try the method Ted did for his tacoma, push wet newspaper in behind the bearing and keep jamming it in there.

[amgraham]

Advance has a decent pilot bearing puller. Just make sure you jam a screwdriver inbetween the jaws (in the center of the bearing) so they don't just pull through. Took me 2 days to figure out that little trick the first time I used it, now I can have 'em out in about 5 min.

[dtrailtaco]

yeah and those are free if i recal the last time i rented somethin there you get your money back. ill try the newspaper and if that doesnt work ill get the puller thanks man

[plusdome]

My suggestion is borrow the puller if you have a store nearby. Thats what I did if I remember correctly they charge you like $50 for the tool which is refunded when you bring it back. Also make sure you check it out before you get it out of the store the threads on mine were buggered up when I picked it up and made pulling the bearing a little tougher but it came out pretty easy. I had read that some people used grease packed behind it and a bolt to push it out but that sounded like a pain in the ass to me.

Im sure its much nicer when the engine is pulled I had to use about 4 ft of extensions to get my bellhousing bolts:eek:

[dtrailtaco]

haha yeah that doesnt sound like much fun with all the extentions. well i went and rented the puller from autozone with a slider hammer it came to around 34 bucks and some change. then i got back to my house and it was just a little to big to fit and i couldnt get it to work so i used the wet newspaper and it worked like a charm :D and then just pulled out a cone shaped ball of news paper with a screwdriver and it was done. it even pushed all the grease out through the bearing making clean up even easier.then i went and got my 34 bucks back. I would recommend using the newspaper to anyone trying this in the future it worked pretty good thanks Eric N for the suggestion.

[Eric_N]

Thank Ted, hes the one who told it to me.

[dtrailtaco]

Thank you Ted worked like a charm.




O and I might be getting a crawler soon. now with IFS the front driveshaft doesnt slip much so are there any from any model yota that anyone knows of off hand that would work. i measured the one on the 84 and the one in the 92 the IFS trucks was longer with the 84's being around 22 and the ifs being around 26ish so the ifs would end up needing to be around 32 or 33 just thought id check before i look into squaring it thanks

[ptrautne]

Thank you Ted worked like a charm.




O and I might be getting a crawler soon. now with IFS the front driveshaft doesnt slip much so are there any from any model yota that anyone knows of off hand that would work. i measured the one on the 84 and the one in the 92 the IFS trucks was longer with the 84's being around 22 and the ifs being around 26ish so the ifs would end up needing to be around 32 or 33 just thought id check before i look into squaring it thanks

I have the drive shaft that you need. I got it from Jason with the tires and lift.

[dtrailtaco]

pm'd you:D

[Stinson]

How long before you SAS? I would just make a square one, make it with as much overlap as possible, then when you SAS you can just pull it out to reach the axle that is now further forward. Then you only have to do this once. I think front is 38" long, and thats with duals and rears up front. I can check if need def. numbers. cya Stinson

[dtrailtaco]

thanks man, yeah it will be a while before i can sas, cause of funds.:( but with a crawler and a spool/locker later it will be a pretty good wheeler for a while until i can sas. but that is a good idea on the drive shaft. thanks man

[Eric_N]

Get it runnin yet?

[dtrailtaco]

i am hoping this weekend LOL i got everything ready for it to go in slap the flywheel on and clutch and put it in. i was hoping to get it done last weekend but stuff came up and my gf's xterra had some broken studs and i had to fix her abs sensor wire was cut and her upper control arm was loose from when merchant did an alignment about a month ago had to take that back up there. just a lot of little stuff that is taking up a lot of my toyota time :mad:


any recommendations on oil type to use to break in the motor. cheapo kind sine ill be changing after a hundred miles or so

[BeaterToyota]

When I did dual cases I had my stock front (IFS) shaft lengthened. You're right that it doesn't slip really at all, so any shaft that's the right length will work fine.

I gave my old one to Paul. He didn't pass it along to you with the truck I guess.

[BeaterToyota]

Oops, I missed some posts. Paul has the shaft for you. :flipoff:

[dtrailtaco]

got the motor sitting in there now i just to make all the connections and put in the radiator and a bunch of other little stuffs

[Stinson]

locked and duals and IFS truck will just about go any where. My IFS was a beat mangled mess when I cut it off. Nothing wrong with wheeling an IFS rig;)

[dtrailtaco]

well had a good christmas gf got me some sliders for the beater, and scored a dual adapter and a crossmember:D .

I got everything pretty much done. finish getting it all torqued down tommorrow but I need to adjust the valves and maybe the timing:confused:. I think I can handle the valves, any advice on what I need to do about the distributor if anything?

Thanks

[locknload]

I've always timed mine by ear. This is how I timed my '86 22RE.

-If you have a light, use that for a baseline.
-With the engine running I set my idle around 8-900 rpm.
-Lightly loosen the dist. bolt and advance the dist. slowly until it starts to run a little worse. (I think advance is clockwise, can't remember at 6:00 a.m., you'll know because the motor will speed up until it runs rough) then turn the dist. back a hair so the idle smooths out.
-Test drive it. If it pings, retard the dist. a hair more.

You can usually get a few degrees advance which helps a bit. Once you're happy with the way she runs, adjust your idle back down to where you like it.

[larc68]

I've always timed mine by ear. This is how I timed my '86 22RE.

-If you have a light, use that for a baseline.
-With the engine running I set my idle around 8-900 rpm.
-Lightly loosen the dist. bolt and advance the dist. slowly until it starts to run a little worse. (I think advance is clockwise, can't remember at 6:00 a.m., you'll know because the motor will speed up until it runs rough) then turn the dist. back a hair so the idle smooths out.
-Test drive it. If it pings, retard the dist. a hair more.

You can usually get a few degrees advance which helps a bit. Once you're happy with the way she runs, adjust your idle back down to where you like it.


thats how i did mine when i changed the timing chain and it works great. that few extra degrees makes at least 50 more HP :p

[dtrailtaco]

thanks guys I just get a little nervous when dealing with the timing for some reason. LOL I can just see me goin to start it and it just goin BOOM like wiley coyote or something haha

thanks again

[locknload]

It's really no biggie. You can even remove and re-install the dist. one tooth off and it will still run, real shitty and hot, but it will run. Ask me how I know :D. You'll be fine.

[dtrailtaco]

yeah I goin to adjust the valves today and try and fire it up tonight:D. thanks again. I wanted to get it running before I put all the goodies I got for it. I even pick up a sony cd player and 2 6.5 speakers and 2 6x9's for 100 bucks from walmart :cool:

[dtrailtaco]

well I got it running but its leaking a little antifreeze :( it looks like it is coming from the head gasket but it is supposedly new:confused: should I replace it? I am goin to double check the torque on em again but at least it does run :D

[ptrautne]

well I got it running but its leaking a little antifreeze :( it looks like it is coming from the head gasket but it is supposedly new:confused: should I replace it? I am goin to double check the torque on em again but at least it does run :D

That sucks, I am sure its a new gasket because I broke a bolt in the timing cover and had to remove the head to remove the bolt and I put the second gasket I had on it. I did have a 3rd head gasket with everything I gave you if you need to replace it. Where is the antifreeze leaking?

[locknload]

Where is the antifreeze leaking?

On the ground, duh.



Sorry, had to do it. :flipoff:

[dtrailtaco]

well its not leaking much now it looked like it was coming down the side of the block from were the head bolts on. yeah there is another gasket. but when we ran it last it wasnt leaking. Im keepin my fingers crossed LOL. hopefully I wont have to pull all that stuff off of there haha

[94krawler]

If its leaking on the intake side of the block makes sure its not from any of the other coolant lines. Mine used to leak and it ran right to the headgasket area but it was a coolant line. Looked liek it was the head leaking till I put it on the lift and got a real good look at it.

[locknload]

Eric beat me to it. I was going to say check the metal coolant tubes at the backside of the Tcover/front of block. New gaskets there? A common leak area.

[dtrailtaco]

checked the tubes its not leaking hardly at all any more. it has a small pinhole of a leak in the head gasket under the efi stuff. you can see bubbling but it only leaks when you turn it off. very slow leak though.


and it has no power. it runs and idles alright but wont even get up the hill in my driveway i had to put it in four low and limp it back to the garage. :confused:

clutch? maybe I put a new one in it.

thanks for the input guys I appreciatte it.

[locknload]

No power? Sounds like your dist is off a tooth or two. How did you re-install it?

[BeaterToyota]

No power? Sounds like your dist is off a tooth or two. How did you re-install it?
Yeah, sounds like the distributor is a tooth or two off, or just adjusted way too far advanced or retarded. When I was messing with my junk and adjusted the timing, I got the dist. turned too far and it idled really nice but had zero power when I took up the road for a test.

[amgraham]

Make sure the TPS is functioning too. It effects timing as well. I couldn't get any power out of my 88 until I tracked down the bad TPS and replaced it.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

[dtrailtaco]

No power? Sounds like your dist is off a tooth or two. How did you re-install it?

I put it in on what I thought was right when it was at TDC. Ill mess with it tomorrow I may have it missing a tooth or two.

man thanks guys i will check it out tommorrow yeah it idles ok a little rough and will rev good and has almost perfect compression (all cylinders were 175) I will tweak the distributor tomorrow and if that doesnt work check on the TPS.

Thanks again much appreciatted

[ptrautne]

I put it in on what I thought was right when it was at TDC. Ill mess with it tomorrow I may have it missing a tooth or two.

man thanks guys i will check it out tommorrow yeah it idles ok a little rough and will rev good and has almost perfect compression (all cylinders were 175) I will tweak the distributor tomorrow and if that doesnt work check on the TPS.

Thanks again much appreciatted

I am glad your getting it closer to running. Glad you have some motivation to get it moving. It would have just sat in my garage.

[dtrailtaco]

Hey paul we got it running good man. it was the distributor off about two tooths:D. thanks again guys. it runs good I just need to adjust the valves again. but it runs good and the tires are balanced better than I thought they would be. I got it up to about 40mph today and no real wobble. I do have a check engine light that is coming on then cutting off every now and then. Maybe a O2 sensor or somethin Ill have to get autozone or somewere to read it for me.

thanks for all yalls input and paul for building a good engine. it doesnt leak anymore LOL but we have good compression so ill just keep an eye on it and post up some updates when I get some goods installed, and it inspected, and all that stuff.

thanks
now i got to get ready for massanutten and wheeling weekend at GW for new years:cool:

[dtrailtaco]

does anyone know which bucket seats will fit in a 92 standard cab fairly easily. I think my bench will have to go so I can get another stick in the floor. It looks like there would be room but my stock t case is forward shift so they are going to be farther apart.

I was assuming runner seats.

[larc68]

i have a set of SR5 buckets out of a 88 4runner ill sell you

[dtrailtaco]

i have a set of SR5 buckets out of a 88 4runner ill sell you

I will let you know, how much you want for em. I was goin to try the pic and pull this weekend if its not freezing that is like today.

[94krawler]

I have SR5's in mine. I still had to mod some stuff to get them to work but they do work. You deffinitly have to ditch the bench for dual case's. My rear twin stick sits right next to my leg.

[Eric_N]

My rear twin stick sits right next to my leg.

Your broken motor mount led to your rear twin stick molesting my leg. :flipoff:

[94krawler]

And you loved every minute:flipoff:

[Eric_N]

And you loved every minute:flipoff:

SSHHHHH! You wernt supposed to tell everyone, damnit.

[94krawler]

SSHHHHH! You wernt supposed to tell everyone, damnit.

My bad....


He hated it I swear. All that time with the shifter rubbing up against him was had to take.

[dtrailtaco]

well its a forward shifting t case is there any special steps I need to do other than make sure the forward reduction box is first in line.

and the top shift case i have is not as new as the forward shift one. would it benefit me to put the detached rear of the forward shift case mated to the reduction box of the topshift case. I read somewere the newer cases were a little quieter. just wondering if it was even worth it.

http://www.trail-gear.com/vbulletin/images/smilies/thanks.gif



o and anyone got an extra tcase shifter lying around

thanks

[Eric_N]

There arnt any special steps needed for the forward shift/crawl box. Just follow the instructions from the doubler kit.

I wouldnt worry about swapping the cases around either. It would just be more of a pain then it would be helpful. I dont even know if you can swap them around that easy b/c of the differences between the top shift and forward shift part, but I dont know, Ive never looked at them next to each other apart. Do you plan on putting 4.7's in the rear case anytime soon?

Ive got an extra top shift shifter if you need it.

[dtrailtaco]

yeah I didnt think it would be worth it but just thought I would ask.

and i just didnt know how different the shift rails were I know the forward shifting reduction box needs to go first.

yeah I need a top shifter shifter pm'd you:D

[dtrailtaco]

anyone got any tips on weldin up a rear end. I got a couple of thirds so might just weld one up to have a locked rear. any tips or help would be much appreciatted :cool:

[amgraham]

anyone got any tips on weldin up a rear end. I got a couple of thirds so might just weld one up to have a locked rear. any tips or help would be much appreciatted :cool:

Funny you should mention that.. I just welded the rear in the sammy tonight. It's harder too because the spiders are contained in this funky "container" that looks kinda like an ARB :D. Anyway, I just welded the spiders to the sidegear where ever I could get to and called it good. I think it'll hold.. Also, that was a 110V 140 amp Mig and it penetrated fine. Pics (the wet stuff in the first pic is anti spatter spray.. Figured it couldn't hurt):

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/amgraham83/1987%20Suzuki%20Samurai/DSC02746.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/amgraham83/1987%20Suzuki%20Samurai/DSC02747.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/amgraham83/1987%20Suzuki%20Samurai/DSC02748.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/amgraham83/1987%20Suzuki%20Samurai/DSC02749.jpg

Now, where in the world are some pics of this thing.. a build thread without pics... :mad:

[dtrailtaco]

LOL sorry man been busy buildin it

yeah i got a pic of how its suppose to look. a piece of metal in the center of the spider gears to strengthen it up. just thought it would help out at crozet. i just cant weld my grandpa can

it looks like you disassembled the third then to weld it up?. or you just cover the gears

[amgraham]

Yeah, I had to disassemble the sammy one to get to the gears.. You shouldn't have to with the yota though.

[BeaterToyota]

Sounds like you got it figured out... just weld the spider gears to the side gears, and add some scrap between it all and weld it in place, too. When I did one for temporary use last summer I cleaned everything really well with brake cleaner first, and, like Anthony, I used anti spatter spray to keep stuff from sticking to the ring and pinion.

Anthony, I know that Samis aren't the most powerful things in the world (neither are 22REs) but I would put some weld on those. I heard it best described on Pirate as an "orb of traction." Many people turn the side gears and spider gears into a ball of metal.

[ToyodaJunkie]

In the zuk diff there is another set of smaller gears, 4 total, and Anthony got them all pretty well. I would say it looked like a glob of motel metal down at the bottom of the diff.

But for the toy diff I would do what these two have said and weld as much of the spider gears as you can and throw some metal in there as well.

[dtrailtaco]

thanks guys. Im goin to try and get the sliders welded up this weekend and hopefully the diff as well. I may attempt the crawler. but that is only if i can find some buckes before crozet.

hopefully get this thing through inspection thurs. I just finished reworking the sheet metal from my lil mishap this weekend in it LOL. and hopefuly get some pictures up on here. I still waiting on the clips to mount the grill I ordered from trdparts4u. hopefully they will be in tommorrow.

I have to help a friend move from manasas down to richmond on sat. so maybe ill get to drive this thing for a good while then.:cool:

[amgraham]

Anthony, I know that Samis aren't the most powerful things in the world (neither are 22REs) but I would put some weld on those. I heard it best described on Pirate as an "orb of traction." Many people turn the side gears and spider gears into a ball of metal.

Yeah, all 4 spiders are welded on top and bottom.. I'm pretty sure it's not going anywhere. Plus, I'm only running 30s and will probably only run this diff for a month or so till I get the lockrighted axles I bought (still under the other guy's truck :mad:). The welded is just to push me through Crozet if I end up taking the Sammy.

[dtrailtaco]

The welded is just to push me through Crozet if I end up taking the Sammy.

x2 i have a couple of thirds so this is just temp. till i can get a spool or locker or somethin;)

[BeaterToyota]

Yeah, all 4 spiders are welded on top and bottom.. I'm pretty sure it's not going anywhere. Plus, I'm only running 30s and will probably only run this diff for a month or so till I get the lockrighted axles I bought (still under the other guy's truck :mad:). The welded is just to push me through Crozet if I end up taking the Sammy.
Right on. I've never seen a Sami diff in person. I know that you know what you're doing.

x2 i have a couple of thirds so this is just temp. till i can get a spool or locker or somethin;)
For a trail rig a welded rear is just fine. Keep the welded diff and save your spool money for dual cases. :cool:

[dtrailtaco]

Right on. I've never seen a Sami diff in person. I know that you know what you're doing.


For a trail rig a welded rear is just fine. Keep the welded diff and save your spool money for dual cases. :cool:


got the adapter and two cases just got to put them together and get a rear driveshaft and go pick up the front one from ace's hopefully this weekend. Just bein in college and limited funds i have to piece this thing together whenever i can scrouge up the money. hopefully i will have this thing with welded rear and duals in before crozet. :cool:

[larc68]

got the adapter and two cases just got to put them together and get a rear driveshaft and go pick up the front one from ace's hopefully this weekend. Just bein in college and limited funds i have to piece this thing together whenever i can scrouge up the money. hopefully i will have this thing with welded rear and duals in before crozet. :cool:


nice...be the first time for two of us to break in the duals!!

[dtrailtaco]

ill be breaking in a engine as well :eek:LOL

but it looks like I will attempt to get it inspected tomorrow so I can drive it on sunday and get some stuff done on it.


wish me luck on that inspection. hopefully i pass cause that would put a damper on my plans for the week.

[Eric_N]

Whos dual case adaptor are you using?

[dtrailtaco]

TG it was a surprise christmas present. it will do though got it before this last fiasco they pulled off. o well

[dtrailtaco]

didnt get it it inspected today. goin to try again this week i guess.

should i try and install the duals with out a second shifter. do i just need to cut a hole big enough for the stock shiftboot pretty much. and i worried cause i might not know with out the shifter if in need to trim the second cases shift rail the 1/2" that is needed. any input on this. or do i need to trim the shift rail anyways.

thanks

[Eric_N]

You can use a screw driver to pop that shift rail forward to find out where you need to trim it, and yes, you will need to trim it.

For the shifter just measure the mounting surface where the shifter mounts to the transfer case to figure out how large of a hole you need to cut.

Im not going to Crozet now, but I gave Mike (locknload) the shifter so he could get it to you.

[dtrailtaco]

You can use a screw driver to pop that shift rail forward to find out where you need to trim it, and yes, you will need to trim it.

For the shifter just measure the mounting surface where the shifter mounts to the transfer case to figure out how large of a hole you need to cut.

Im not going to Crozet now, but I gave Mike (locknload) the shifter so he could get it to you.

thanks man. cool well i might tackle that thing this week then. ill wait til after i get inspection on monday so its not without a driveshaft then i find out i need somethin to pass inspection like friday or somethin

[locknload]

Except now that I have the shifter the new price is $200.00 :flipoff:.

[Eric_N]

Except now that I have the shifter the new price is $200.00 :flipoff:.

Whatever dude. Dont be surprised if you find your 4Runner on jackstands tomarrow morning with both diffs and one of the fire extinguishers missing. Fo Show. :eek:

[locknload]

Ha-Ha. It stays inside plus you have to get past the German Shepard, did I tell you I taught her how to use the Glock? Because of her paws (no opposable thumbs) she is a little slow reloading.

[Rover]

meh, rufus will take your dog any day

[dtrailtaco]

Except now that I have the shifter the new price is $200.00 :flipoff:.
goodness.................................is it chrome :D




well i forgot to mention the bucket seats i ended up gettin are pretty nice. more comfortable than my taco seats i think. i got them out of a 90 somethin mazada i think. it was a four door car maybe a 626. but the drivers side has a lumbar adjustment and bottom tilt feature :D only had to make two brackets as the rails were a little wider than the holes in the floor. it turned out nice and from chesterfield auto parts they were only 10.99 a peice :eek:

[amgraham]

:postpics1:
^
STILL

Your junk better show this weekend so I can take pics since you're not going to :p

[dtrailtaco]

LOL everytime i take pics its late and they dont come out lookin good.


but i drove it to work today and would put pics up here at work but they block photobucket and most pics:(


but it runs good now. i had it doin 65 on 95 last night and it rode nice and smooth.

the tires and beatin up wheels smooth out at speeds upwards of 50ish, they only shake a little around 40 to 45 LOL.

the truck runs and drives good. i have a little exhuast leak though. i cant figure out if its near the manifold or either of the two gaskets near the converter. its hard to find cause it only leaks under a load, sittin there idling and reving with no load there is no leak.

and me and grandpa have some BOLT ON sliders in the works. hopefully the last bracket done tonight.

ill take a pic of it with the sliders on. cuase it just looks like a reg. truck with swampers and bucket seats.


and i also replaced the blown dashlights with some red ones ended looking pretty good. :cool:

[BeaterToyota]

the tires and beatin up wheels smooth out at speeds upwards of 50ish, they only shake a little around 40 to 45 LOL.
Yeah, I did a number on those wheels in ~3 years. :cool:

Note to others: use a 7" rims with 10.5" tires; 8" rims get beat up too much when you're at 10 PSI.

[amgraham]

Note to others: use a 7" rims with 10.5" tires; 8" rims get beat up too much when you're at 10 PSI.

That's why I run stockers :cool:

[dtrailtaco]

well the truck runs good been driving to school and work some. gettin ready to do the first oil change. had no problems so far. but recently i noticed that when i am driving and i go to stop and push in on the clutch and come to a stop the engine will idle wierd. it will idle then sound like it is about to cut off real quick then idle fine. then do it again and then idle fine.it will do it a couple of times then idle fine consistantly. it isnt enough to make the lights dim or anything and it will only do it when i am stopping after driving. I cant get it to do it in neutral in the garage to listen to it up close. i checked all electrical connections and grounds and got nothin. It hasnt affected the engine while in gear and goin down the road and it will sit and idle fine after it does its thing a couple of times.

maybe someone can help shed some light on the situation. :confused:

thanks.



and ill try and get pics up this weekend:D

[94krawler]

Mine used to do that during the winter only. I cranked my idle up just a hair and it stopped doing it. Might want to clean the T-body out good as well.

[amgraham]

Make sure your dash pot is adjusted correctly (I'm not joking, as stupid as it sounds... I think 4crawler has an article on it). I have to adjust mine every few months and clean it after wheeling if it gets muddy. Also, double check for vacuum leaks.

[BeaterToyota]

One possibility is that your idle is set too high.

There's a vacuum switched connected to the brake booster that cuts fuel to the engine when you are off the gas and you apply the brakes. It could be that your idle is set too high, and then the fuel cut switch is trying to drop it down. Then they two systems work against each other and make your tach bounce up and down.

[BeaterToyota]

Mine used to do that during the winter only. I cranked my idle up just a hair and it stopped doing it. Might want to clean the T-body out good as well.
Nice signature.

And Anthony, I gave you a new "custom user title". :D

[amgraham]

And Anthony, I gave you a new "custom user title". :D

Thanks bro :p

[dtrailtaco]

thanks guys that was quick LOL

ill check that stuffs tomorrow night:D
i need a tach so i might pick up a little one from autozone or somethin to put in there. i dont think the idle is too high cause i messed with that today but ill check it again. along with the vacums and such reall good. i do have an exhaust leak in this truck i think it is a y pipe though its gots lots of boogery welds on it.

thanks guys.

[Eric_N]

I got a tach you can have for free. When are you getting your duals in? You cant have it until you get that done.

[locknload]

Final Jeopardy music plays.

[88rnr86up]

I'll take slowest build up for $1000 alex











LOL

[dtrailtaco]

i am striving for the newest slowest buildup award.....:D


i did get a little grant steering wheel put in the other night i had lyin around.:flipoff:




i am tearing the case apart this weekend. and puttin em together if everything goes as planned. this nice weather recently i have gotten a little motivation:rolleyes:

o an beater wins, it was the idle set to high and the timin bein off just a hair cause when i set the ide a tad lower the problem went away but then it idle a little rougher. good to go now:cool:

[dtrailtaco]

got the duals together, gonna drop the rear driveshaft off tomorrow to get shortened and then cut a hole in the floor this weekend. :cool:

[locknload]

Jigsaw worked nice for mine.

[larc68]

Jigsaw worked nice for mine.

jigsaw really...good idea. what about a saw-zaw?

[locknload]

Yeah, yeah, yeah. OK it was Donnie's idea.

[dtrailtaco]

plannin on using hole saw then sawzall.:D

[dtrailtaco]

got everything pretty much done with the duals but i run into a snag. my cv for the front is contacting the duals. did yall switch up the flanges. i wasnt sure if the front diff flange is differnt from a rear axle flange. def. different from my tcase flange. i need to swap some flanges around to flip the drive shaft to get it to work. i still ifs

or do i need to order the trippled drilled one

thanks
tryin to get this done tonight while i finally have time to work on it.

[Eric_N]

Usually you swap the CV shaft to the rear so that you can rotate your rear axle housing up to get a better u-joint angle at the rear axle. To do this you need to swap the front and rear output flanges on the T-Case. The ones on the diffs *should* be the same. Have you already had the driveshafts shortened/extended?

[dtrailtaco]

yeah its the front shaft off of beaters truck when he was ifs and duals. still has the cv on it. i can get it work at the tcase end backwards but not at the diff. end. the nut for the front diff. output isnt 30 like the rest either adn the tcase outputs are bigger and dont seat on the splines.

the rear is a 8 and the front is 7.5 so i was wondering if even swappin the two even work. i had the rear shortened already as well

[Eric_N]

Ah, ok I got ya. Yea I dont know if the flanges on the IFS diffs are the same spline count as the 8" thirds.

Where is the CV hitting? Is it actually hitting the dual case assembly?

[dtrailtaco]

yes and the reduction housing. and i dont want to mess with the housing and ruin it:eek:LOL

i may go out a pull a flange that spare rear i got and see if it works EDIT:but that should be the same as a tcase flange right?

[locknload]

I see where you're talking about. I have not lengthened my front shaft yet so I held it up there. I have about 1/4" of clearance to the lower ear of the adapter. I'm running a solid axle CV but checked my IFS CV and the clearance is the same. Who's adapter do you have? May have mre meat in that corner, can you hit it with a sawzall a little?

[94krawler]

I run a single joint up front at the case. BTW my old IFS driveshaft parts bolted right to the other flanges I have now.

[BeaterToyota]

Hmm? That driveshaft worked for me with no problems. It is my stock shaft and joints/flanges just lengthened.

I only had to change the t-case output when I switched to my current shaft, which uses a rear driveshaft style single u-joint, no CV. I used a triple drilled one just to match the bolt pattern of the free square driveshaft I have now.

[larc68]

mine actually rubs sometimes also. it is really tight but when i get around to it, i will just grind the reduction housing down. the whole time we was wheeling at crozet, the first time i used it, i never heard it rub.

[locknload]

mine actually rubs sometimes also. it is really tight but when i get around to it, i will just grind the reduction housing down. the whole time we was wheeling at crozet, the first time i used it, i never heard it rub.

Do you guys have the same adapter? Something says it may be an Advanced Adapter issue. One Marlin and one inchworm so far clear. Interesting to see if this is so.

[Eric_N]

JD has the Trail-Gear adapter

[dtrailtaco]

yeah its trail gear. the only way it could be releived is if the rear was clocked a little more. but then the mount wouldnt sit flush.

yeah it will still spin just resist more and probably wear itself down. its tight though i may have to get a new front shaft without the cv.

donnie you have a cv in yours too



i could swap flanges but the front ifs flange is def. different from all the rest.
but needless to say i am putit all together minus the front shaft for now and either grind it like donnies or get one without a cv.

anyone think i could grind down the outside of the cv without messin it up too bad. i have two more cv front shafts if i damage it beyond recignitionLOL

[BeaterToyota]

anyone think i could grind down the outside of the cv without messin it up too bad. i have two more cv front shafts if i damage it beyond recignitionLOL
I tried that with a CV in the rear so that it would clear the horse collar crossmember better. There's not a whole lot you can shave off before you get close to the u-joint caps. Give it a shot, just watch out for the zerk fittings when you take the grinder to it.

[dtrailtaco]

grinded on it some. cleared it enough to make it work. it doesnt rub now sittin there. when its under a load it might but it is probably good enough for now. i still have some i can grind off becuase were it hits is right behind the u joint caps were its the thickest on the cv. i may grind a tad on the housing later on.

thanks guys for the input. im done for tonight got the trans filled. fill the duals tomorrow and put the seats and stuff back in and see how it works.

thanks for the help :cool:

[dtrailtaco]

got em in and man this is sweet:D

drive it to school tomorrow to see how everythin goes.

driveshaft doesnt rub when in double low but when im in 4wd with any kinda speed it does.

o well mess with it one day

[amgraham]

I did this mod for JD today.. He just has to clean the pine needles out of it and install it :p

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/amgraham83/DSC03069.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h146/amgraham83/DSC03070.jpg

[dtrailtaco]

thanks again.:cool: and like i said i read on the internet that those needles are a gear oil additive secret like synthetic blend kinda deal.:D

[locknload]

I've seen that. It's a horsepower chart and Pine Needles are good for 7-9 HP depending on what region the tree comes from.

[dtrailtaco]

tested the rear out on sunday on a friends trail, works good, sliders on, thanks again Anthony:cool:, trail was muddy hill climbs and off camber slippery situations. and haveing the crawler in that helped a lot, doubling my power to sling mud out of the balding swampers:D.. now i need to address the suspension cause i was on three wheels on more than on occassion and i believe my shocks are shot anyways.

i am very pleased with the truck right now though and cant wait to test it out ont the rocks

[dtrailtaco]

:( well today driving home not 12 miles from my house the little beater makes a strange noise gettin of of 64 at the exit. I come to a stop and it is idling fine and sounds great then the light turns green and i give it some gas and some squealing/chirping begins, i let of the gas and it goes away, idles down fine and normal, press the gas again and chirping again so i then put it in neutral and cost into the gas station thankfuly down hill. i stop and give a liittle gas and it chirps again. i get out and its leaking oil that there is oil all over the steering linkage and everything below and near the oil pump has oil on it. so i call my friend with a trailer he takes me home with the beater in tow:(......now one thing we did notice is it didnt chirp when it was on the incline driving up the trailer and it idled fine and didnt smoke. it was leaking badly and had oil and would stop leaking when shut off. my question is, oil pump? or crankshaft bearings or shaft itself. what ever it is it is coming from oil pump area. and it looks to leak slightly between the camshaft pully and pump. pan has always leaked a little.

opinions, advice would be much appreciatted. im goin to take a closer look at it tomorrow after school. Im kinda sick hoping its nothing to serious.


thanks

[94krawler]

Most liekly the crankshaft seal or the oil pump O-ring is leaking. It isnt uncommon for either to leak. they tend to make one heck of a mess when they leak also.

[dtrailtaco]

would make it squeal like that.

bearing shot? or just try replacing seal

[88rnr86up]

oil on the belts

[dtrailtaco]

thought so too but im not so sure that was the case. felt belts before we started it back up and they werent oilly really. and it just sounded a like a little more than oiled belts slipping

[dtrailtaco]

found the culpret to be a failed oil pump gasket and causeing oil to leak onto the pulleys slingin it everywere and cause a very bad sounding belt squeal. luckily i have a couple extra gaskets but just goin to be a pain.
thanks for yalls advice/input :cool:

[94krawler]

So where was the oil coming from:confused:

[dtrailtaco]

whoops sorry typed to fast that was suppose to say oil pump. thanks rocktoy, it was leaking at the oil pump so its either the seal or o ring like you said, had a couple front loose oil pan bolts as well but all tight now and will try and fix the leak this weekend. thanks for the information again

[locknload]

22RE right? Go to Pep Boys and ask for the timing chain gasket set from FelPro. I believe it has the oring, gasket, other gaskets you may need later but more importantly, it comes with a speedy sleeve. Put that on your crank pully to create a new seal surface. I've seen the speedy sleeve alone sell for $30 :eek:.

[dtrailtaco]

thanks for the tip. i googled it but my work blocks most forums so ill have to check it out tonight. is it only in the FelPro kit. i have a timing chain kit already in my spair parts bin but I dont think it has the speedy sleeve thing. thanks for the tip, have you used the sleeve on yours how much better does it work.

thanks again

[locknload]

Yeah my leak was from the groove in the pulley made from a rubber seal, yeah figure that one out. It's a paper thin steel collar that slides over the pulley's seal surface. I would always install one whrn doing a seal for the first time. I only saw it in the felpro kit.

[dtrailtaco]

ok checked it out. i also found you can use thicker or thiner seals to reposition the point of sealing on the crank. i know i have a new seal cause it is in the new oil pump i have. and i think i have a couple seals too. there may be a grove not sure cause this is a rebuilt motor. guess ill have to see if there is a grove in it or not . might be able to just use a new seal and it may work. but ill pick up a sleeve too. it sure is messy slingin all that oil around

thanks again

[Eric_N]

As Mike was saying, it will be cheaper to buy the whole Felpro gasket kit than it would be just to but the speedy sleeve (which yes, Mike has some weird obsession with, but we wont go there:flipoff:) The gasket kit includes it and it only cost $20 or so but the speedy sleeve alone runs $30. Doesnt make sence but apparently thats how it is. Personally, Id go with the Felpro kit and have all of those extra gaskets on hand if needed.

[dtrailtaco]

yeah just i think i have the seals but for twenty bucks i was goin to pick it up either way for the sleeve. thanks for the info guys, cause i need a puller in case the pulley doesnt want to come off.

[Eric_N]

Should come right off, try two pry bars on each side and wiggle it off. If that doesnt work we found that the Pulley Puller from Auto Zone works perfect on a 3.4 4Runner, even the SAE bolts supplied in the kit fit the thread pitch in the holes in the pulley on the 4Runner:wtf:. Should work on the 22R-E also, but Ive never had a problem getting a crank pulley off of a 22R-E. Just make sure you torque the crank bolt to spec.

[ptrautne]

ok checked it out. i also found you can use thicker or thiner seals to reposition the point of sealing on the crank. i know i have a new seal cause it is in the new oil pump i have. and i think i have a couple seals too. there may be a grove not sure cause this is a rebuilt motor. guess ill have to see if there is a grove in it or not . might be able to just use a new seal and it may work. but ill pick up a sleeve too. it sure is messy slingin all that oil around

thanks again

Only the bearing journals were machined on the crank. Or at least I think the crank got machine because machine shop told me to order .010 undersize crank bearings

[dtrailtaco]

thanks pual ill check it out tomorrow. and pick up a kit in case for the sleeve. i have enough seals and gaskets to rebuild it again thanks to paul:D its just something small i think loosening the crankbolt will be the biggest pain, but other than this little leak its been running great paul :cool:

[ptrautne]

thanks pual ill check it out tomorrow. and pick up a kit in case for the sleeve. i have enough seals and gaskets to rebuild it again thanks to paul:D its just something small i think loosening the crankbolt will be the biggest pain, but other than this little leak its been running great paul :cool:

Pull the plugs, then use a breaker bar long enough to reach the frame and use the starter to break the bolt loose.

[locknload]

Don't need to pull the plugs just the coil wire.

[dtrailtaco]

yeah im goin to try that first. make sure i got a six point socket.

[dtrailtaco]

well my local pep boys only had a gasket kit by felpro for 8 bucks but included everything but the sleeve. so i returned it cause i have all the gaskets already. so i may just try it with a new seal. but ill tear it down and look at it and may just order the kit with sleeve if i can find elsewere.

[dtrailtaco]

had a little groove in the crankpully but all fixed ended up goin to napa and had the fellpro kit for 18 bucks with the sleeve and no leaks so far.

thanks for the advice:cool:

[locknload]

Right on, good to know Napa has the kit as well.

[dtrailtaco]

need some suspension on this thing cause stock flex isnt so hot. while the welded rear has made this thing a lot more capable since this trucks lifts tires so easily.


just wanted to get some input/advice on rear leafs and i guess the given on the front suspension is bj spacers. i guess i am thinkin of chevy's whats yalls opinions on em. i have read were some use 56" springs i think ford springs, just want to go to the pick and pull this week and get started asap. and get a rear bumper made before the spring event on va4x4 at rausch in may:cool: i better get to work


thanks in advance

[94krawler]

I've never seen a set of 63's that flexed real good on a truck unless they had leave's yanked, double shackle or buggy leaf. They work good on runners but theres a bit of a weight difference.

[Stinson]

My 63"s ride good, flex good (over load cut down) but they are to long. You are better off with a spring that doesnt hang out the back so much.

[ToyodaJunkie]

I like my chevys as well but they are what they are. Cheap lift.
They do flex better than my stock springs but I dont run an overload either.

[mtnyota]

My 63s flex great. They are out of a late model. Cut the ovrload down and used 1 leaf from my stock pack, and 6" boomerang shackeles from bud.

[dtrailtaco]

thanks guys, i may shop around then, and it doesnt matter all that much now cause my bed will be the stock length for a little while.

[dtrailtaco]

got the rear of the bed cut in prep for a rear square bumper. it took care of most of the rust hole on one side. someone spent some time on the good side with bondoonly to get cut of:D

and i have been still searching on the intraweb for springs and i may take a look at some ford springs at the pick and pull. they are closer to trailgear, marlin, aftermarket springs mounting measurements. but i still researching and may endup just goin with chevys cause i think this bumper will be to much for my already worn out rear springs.

[dtrailtaco]

questions about xhaust.

at rock auto.com, i can get all the stock replace parts minus the cat for $185. that is a pipe from the manifold to the cat, then from the cat is one piece muffler that bends around the axle.


question is how low does that stock exhaust hang. cause the xhaust on my truck i dont think is stock anymore and was redone it doesnt use all stock hangers and it rattles up against the trans every now and then on start up and has major booger welds on the pipe at the manifold

thanks

[dtrailtaco]

I got bored this weekend and decided to paint the rest of the truck.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/001-Copy.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/002-Copy.jpg

i think it turned out good, and I got a new hood on, so now it all matches. I had the back end painted already but decided to go ahead with the rest of it.

[dtrailtaco]

my first real welding project and i think it turned out good. front bumper based off trailgears mount.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/023.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/024.jpg

and some old pictures when it was stock at crozet with some worn out swampers being shoved over a rock and around a tree by MATC :D

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/015.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/014.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/016.jpg


has come a good ways since that trip, cant wait to go back

[locknload]

Good job on the bumper, turned out nice.

[dtrailtaco]

thanks man, it was interesting gettin the angles on the top hoop, didnt have a bender so i had to notch, bend and weld it up, I burnt through alot of sticks but it was fun and def. gained some minor welding experience.:D

had my gramps check all the welds and such, so hopefully it wont fall off at the first rock it hits:D

[PrezidentRedz]

Looks good, did you check your mounting points, wanna make sure your winch dosent rip it off either... :)

[dtrailtaco]

mounting points for the winch itself or the the ones for the frame. its a trail gear winch mount so it would probably work without doing anything to it i just added some protection for the truck. the plate mounts to the front crossmember. the only mounts i had to make were the ones that go on top of the crossmember like an older pickup would have. made those out of 1/4 plate so they should hold up good.:)

[BeaterToyota]

thanks man, it was interesting gettin the angles on the top hoop, didnt have a bender so i had to notch, bend and weld it up
Looks good considering the method used. A lot better than if you had mitered all the angles and welded them back together. Nice.

[mtnyota]

Good job dude. Looks good.

[1stgenrnrdude]

nice man! the front bumper turned out great too! keep it up!

[dtrailtaco]

so update. after wheelin the piss out of it with ifs, hittin black trails at ruasch trips to crozet i developed quit a bit of frame rust and un good cracking. wont pass inspection anymore so i picked up a friends 89 and am in the process of swapping parts over. the plan is to sas since the front diff and all that is already out and it would be pointless to put that stuff back in when i dont have any good ifs parts to put in it since mine are all worn out. i have 456 third and front 456 ifs diff. but plan to try and pick up another 456 third hopefully if i can find some pennies somewere. the truck i picked up is an 89 std cab with bobbed bed and 63" cheby's and 1" body lift with sliders and rear bumper already on it. so just goin to swap axle and my front bumper, motor duals and wiring and hit the trails. hope to have it ready by june for a ruasch event. motor, trans and cases are out. off tomorrow so goin to tear into the dash to pull that harness out.

[99SR5]

i love the front bumper, im gonna want to run lights on my tube bumper too...

[1stgenrnrdude]

so update. after wheelin the piss out of it with ifs, hittin black trails at ruasch trips to crozet i developed quit a bit of frame rust and un good cracking. wont pass inspection anymore so i picked up a friends 89 and am in the process of swapping parts over. the plan is to sas since the front diff and all that is already out and it would be pointless to put that stuff back in when i dont have any good ifs parts to put in it since mine are all worn out. i have 456 third and front 456 ifs diff. but plan to try and pick up another 456 third hopefully if i can find some pennies somewere. the truck i picked up is an 89 std cab with bobbed bed and 63" cheby's and 1" body lift with sliders and rear bumper already on it. so just goin to swap axle and my front bumper, motor duals and wiring and hit the trails. hope to have it ready by june for a ruasch event. motor, trans and cases are out. off tomorrow so goin to tear into the dash to pull that harness out.

i love cliftons old rig, cant wait to see how it turns out man

[dtrailtaco]

anyone headin up to rausch anytime befor june? gettin a diff from kajo and need a way to get it down to va.

thanks

[dtrailtaco]

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0094.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0095.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0096.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0097.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0088.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0089.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0090.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0091.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0092.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0086.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0085.jpg

[1stgenrnrdude]

nice work dood, sad to see that thing die tho=( i loooove cliftons old truck tho, that thing is gonna be fun man. you gonna post pics of the build on the new truck on this thread?

also, if you end up not using that tool box let me know.

[dtrailtaco]

im goin to use it, unless you want to buy it:)

[1stgenrnrdude]

im goin to use it, unless you want to buy it:)

hmmm im gonna have to think about it, im supposed to be buying one from a guy a work with for a hundred bucks so we'll see how it goes. :D

[dtrailtaco]

ill sell you mine for 100 bucks:)

also welded up the steering box mount. the engine is ready to go in this thing, project is gettin close to finishin

[dtrailtaco]

still need to put the motor, trans, and duals in the new truck. make my ruf pack, rebuild the axle, chop ifs off, and weld up the hangers and such, order shocks and it will be driveable. i doubt i wil have the coin before trip to rausch for chromoly shafts and another locker but we shall see.

o and also i need to build a front driveshaft and probably get a spare rear driveshaft made

[1stgenrnrdude]

ill sell you mine for 100 bucks:)



would you do $150 for the box and ifs brace?

[dtrailtaco]

so what do yall think of the spring pack? mixed in some xplorer springs in it think it turned out good. i think the shackle angle is ok to. opinions/input?

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0108.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0107-1.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0110.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0106.jpg

[BeaterToyota]

It's hard to tell from the pics, but I think the shackles could use some more angle. I would push the spring hanger back so the front of it is flush with the front of the frame (that's how I did mine) and that would change the shackles.

[BeaterToyota]

What are you using as the main leaf? Toy rears?

[dtrailtaco]

yeah toy rears. that pic is actually without the winch on or the dual cases in so it still has a bit more weight to add to it and it hasnt been around the block any. the hanger is flush with the frame. just need to wait on ubolts so i can bolt up the axle to the leaves. the springs are toy mains with some xplorer leaves mixed in.

i need to make a new shock mount for the axle my procomp shocks the bushings are to wide for the mounts and the bolt needs to be bigger. might make something like the tg gussets.

[99SR5]

ooh this looks good, im excited to see how this goes

[dtrailtaco]

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0127.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0128.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0131.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0133.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0134.jpg
here is a pic of the front leaves, i am goin to try and remove the bottom xplorer leaf, the front is a bit high and a little to stiff, the pic of the shackle above is the rear shackle the previous owner installed the chevy's but i like the height of the rear of the truck. i think they look a bit relaxed but i am goin to mess with the front a bit and see how much lower the it gets. but it is gettin there goin to see what i can get done in today.

[1stgenrnrdude]

looks awesome man. im a bit jealous, i loved this truck before now youre just rubbin it in :D

[BeaterToyota]

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_0133.jpg

Do you not have flash dude? :flipoff:

That's a damn near 90* approach angle. Nice.

[mtnyota]

Lookin good

[dtrailtaco]

that was the flash i have a cheap digital camera and it can be mid day and picture come out like that haha.

got a leaf removed it lowered it a bit. in front of the crossmember bottom of fram measurement is 24 3/4" and the rear of is 24 even in front of the chevy mount. i think i am goin to add the ford leaf to the rear that i pulled from the front to make it sit level. but overall i am glad it didnt come out to high.

goin to put the dual in tonight. the front bumper will take away that nice angle but the axle is redrilled and rears up front so i guess that makes it 3" forward.

[99SR5]

what rear bumper is that?

[dtrailtaco]

i think clifton who i got the truck from made it.

[99SR5]

damn, i like it though, simple and close to the body.

[dtrailtaco]

got some more done this weekend. even drove it around the yard to get the springs settled and test it out. it ended up leveling out the truck and i am pretty stoked it is almost done. also got the front bumper welded on tonight to and the hood on. brakes and clutch lines a bled, just need to make a drive shaft and measure for shocks and weld up the hoops and finish up the interior. also stuck the exlporer leaf i pulled from the front pack in the rear with chevy's to get the rear up. ended up lifting the rear about an inch.
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_1095.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_1094.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_1098.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_1097.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_1096.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_1092.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_1090.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_1093.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_1091.jpg
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/100_1089.jpg
i think the up travel is kinda limited since the drop arm is about a 1" 3/4 front the spring now. might find some toyota leafs to stick in the pack or maybe try a 3/4" drop arm, i think a flat one arm will hit the frame. but the truck sits level now and shackle angle is good

[1stgenrnrdude]

looks sick man

[dtrailtaco]

thanks man i am pretty stoked at how it came out. it sits about level. depending on how much saggin it will do i may add some thinner toyota leafs in there. but jrod i was lookin at the 3/4" drop arms today. htey are about a little pricey but pretty much only choice i think other than redoin the box mount. i thinki i need it though. to bad tg doesnt have a 3/4" drop arm. i wouldnt trust it if i modified the one i got.

might ride down the rode when it a little more complete to my buds house who has a forklift and measure for shocks. he is right through the woods

also measured my wheelbase last night and it sittin right at about 110"

and just measured the height and its 24.5" to bottom of frame about mid door. my goal was to keep it low and i think its pretty low as far as sas toyotas go.

[1stgenrnrdude]

indeed, it doesnt appear too hgih in the pics, its also kinda hard to tell. how does it measure up against the taco?(that will be mine i n the future lol)

[99SR5]

thats really nice, i like how its sased and low, thats gonna be my goal too.

[dtrailtaco]

thanks man, its not that low as far as some of the folks on here and builds i have seen but thanks. got the interior done today well driver seat is just about done. goin to a buds tomorrow to use the forklift to measure for shocks and all that stuff.

[BeaterToyota]

Saw the pics of your rig that Rich posted on Facebook. Looks pretty rad.

[dtrailtaco]

Finally got the crank bolt off what a pain in the ass. had to end up gettin the torch out and putting some heat on it and then pop it broke loose. Been tryin different tricks for a couple of nights now but due to them not working and just lack of motivation no luck. So hopefully I replace the oil pump since the guy I got the truck from gave me a brand new one from engbldr.com :smt047 and hopefully the leak goes away. I think its the o ring it since only leaks under pressure.

[dtrailtaco]

timing cover leak, O what fun, now I get to do all the work I had done over again:argue:

[ccannon222]

timing cover leak, O what fun, now I get to do all the work I had done over again:argue:

I have done several timing change changes and I have never been able to get the timing cover to be completely leak free. Even the engine my bro rebuilt leaked a little bit.

Good luck.

Chris

[94krawler]

I've never had a issue sealing them. My old motor didnt even have cover gaskets in it just Permatex Grey.

[dtrailtaco]

yeah going to use black or grey permatex. should I pull the head or just try to get by with resealing the top of the cover. The leak is bad and actually running now, hope its not cracked or anything.

[94krawler]

Shouldnt need to pull the head, the oil pan will be off to get the pickup tube clear so you should have plenty of room. Its been awhile since I did one without pulling th ehead but IIRC it isnt to bad.

[dtrailtaco]

good deal, thanks. Going to get it all fixed up tomorrow since weather would be nice. Would rather been wheelin at crozet but what can you do.

Also picked up a e fan for the truck since havent had good luck with the mechanical ones and hate the whoooo noises in double low. Going to use a mercury villager two speed fan. Puts out lots of air and have everything i need for under 50 bucks. Main problem is running ac on hot wheeling days to keep the lady happy and that doesnt keep the truck happy. hopefully it will be a win win:thump:

[dtrailtaco]

leak fixed for now. efan installed and working too. works great and much quieter than the factory fan and is working better than either of the factory fans I had in the truck.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/Copyof100_0237.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/Copyof100_0235.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/Copyof100_0234.jpg

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee271/skeltonjd/Copyof100_0232.jpg

[dtrailtaco]

http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa353/WhiteRunner11/Crozet/IMG_20110814_125006-1.jpghttp://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa353/WhiteRunner11/Crozet/download6-1.jpg
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa353/WhiteRunner11/Crozet/download5.jpg
http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa353/WhiteRunner11/Crozet/download4.jpg

some pics from last sundays crozet run. Efan did great and kept the temps undercontrol even with the ac cranked all day. Also nice to not here the constant whoooing on the mechanical fan.

[1stgenrnrdude]

jd your truck is sick. any ideas as to whats next with it? if any

[BeaterToyota]

jd your truck is sick. any ideas as to whats next with it? if any
IFS swap.

[dtrailtaco]

yeah ifs front and rear like an atv. nothing but regear and get longs but those are pretty much the two most expensive things that have been put off for a while now

[dtrailtaco]

finally got my rear cv shaft in today. I cut out the middle of the horseshoe crossmember. Was thinking of just leaving it that way, any thoughts? Dont have time to drop the tank and weld something in and flexed it out a bit and didn't notice or measure any crazy extra movement in the frame.

Also cleared and engine code that came up. had couple maf codes. I think the sensor is about to crap out. It will act like it misses and hesitates and the light will stay on, then it will run perfect.:thumbdown:

codes cleared and didnt throw any on the way home so just keep my eye on it.

Also got my FatMat in for a little sound relief. ever since the carpet was removed its a lot more noisier and everything rattles more than I would like it to. Its also way cheaper than dynamat. 100 sq ft from amazon for 100 coins.

[94krawler]

I dont have that crossmember at all and my truck is fine. I'd bet its seen a bunch more abuse as well.

Your truck doesnt have a MAF it has a AFM. Pull it off and check to make sure the door inside moves freely, sometime they get shitty and hang up. It will run like crap if it hangs up. Also check the intake tube for cracks, any air leak between will mess up the AFM readings.


did you notice and performance gain with the E-fan at all? I know the stock fan is kinda power robbing just curious if the difference was noticable removing the stock fan.

[dtrailtaco]

whoops meant afm, the codes I was reading off 4crawlers site said maf/afm ......
Thanks for the advice I did pull and check the door it was working fine not sticking I did spray the inside down with electrical safe cleaner though just to be sure. Checked the air inlet for holes can't find any, Ill just keep and eye on it though.

Yeah your truck has seen quite a bit more abuse than mine. I may just cut the rest of the exhaust side off then so I can tuck that up a bit more one day.


I did notice a power gain and especially in the summer when humidity down here is a :thumbdown:. My truck would get real warm on the wooded trails with no breeze. It has high speed wired for ac use but the fan has an extra high speed setting that is currently unused which I was going to set to a switch in case it ever got close to overheating but so far it hasn't. I did have to make new radiator mounts and the villager fan is a little big for the 22re rad but its what I pulled and made it work. A main reason I went with the efan was because I have a bunch of the factory ones for spares and none of them seem to handle the humidity in the summer when wheeling and the whoooooo whooo in double low wheeling with factory super quiet exhaust is kind of annoying for me.

I used this diagram for my set up.

[dtrailtaco]

threw the engine light again today. It was cold when it did it and it will cough and hesitate throw the code and then run perfectly :thumbdown:

[94krawler]

AFM code still? You can put a DVOM on it and sweep it to see if it cuts out. The inside is literally just a wiper resistor they do wear out at spot sometimes. See if you can borrow one from someone and try it.

[dtrailtaco]

yeah I may steal my brothers and see if it goes fixes it. Its always random though so I am going to double check connections and grounds after work today see what I can find. This getting dark so early now is making after work truck wrenching sessions less fun :thump:

[dtrailtaco]

so I think I got lucky and it ended up being the connection to the afm. When I finally had time to check it out this afternoon and the clip that holds the connection on was not snapped on one side allowing the connection to move possibly causing the randomness of the problem. All is god so far

[94krawler]

Woot:clap: glad it was something stupid

[dtrailtaco]

you and me both:clap:

[dtrailtaco]

worked on it sat. night couldnt make it throw a code. swapped my brother afm on and worked with no codes. Then took the afm off and checked the ohms which at first was gettin no reading on the Vs or Vc plug cant remember, using 4crawlers method. Unscrewed the afm plug to check inside for corrosion and the circuit board were the Vs or Vc plug contacted look corroded.

Tried cleaning best I could and put it back together then got a good resistance reading and put back on the truck and drove back home and around today with no codes.

The randomness of the code throwing is confusing, most folks on pirate with the code 31 issue seem to have it when it gets warm or after a certain amount of driving. This is just random no certain set of situations. So will keep a check on it and drive it around I guess.