View Full Version : Evolution of my 22re lot's of picture's
breaker
08-04-2009, 04:17 AM
So I decided to rebuild a block for my 93 SAS (4" front 5" rear) 4runner 5 speed with 5.29's and 35 x 12.5's , old motor had a blown head gasket and a bottom end knock.
So I Bought a used block to start the rebuild as follows:
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN3599.jpg
For the record I have never done anything like this before I got all my info from the web and a few Toyota boards and only had help putting the engine in the truck.
The Victim
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN3151.jpg
Machine shop work included
.020 over cylinders
block decked .010 (copper head shim to bring it back to stock height)
hot tanked and cleaned
align bored
all mating surfaces checked and straightened flat
rods checked and shot peened
Enginbldr Master rebuild kit
rivers siide steel guide timing kit
New head bolts and both water/oil pumps
.020 over pistons/rings
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN3634.jpg
HEAD
L.C.Engineering Pro Street/Comp with matching cam
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN3612.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN3608.jpg
Brand new crank/King main and rod bearings
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN3636.jpg
Injectors rebuild by WITCH HUNTER PERFORMANCE
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN3631.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN3630.jpg
Electric Fan 16" with Derale 150-240 adjustable temp switch
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/22re%20rebuild/cf01_1.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/22re%20rebuild/DSCN3758.jpg
Clutch
Marlin Crawler 1200lb hd kit
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN3818.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN3817.jpg
Here's the build up progress in picture's
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/22re%20rebuild/DSCN3660.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/22re%20rebuild/DSCN3662.jpg
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http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/22re%20rebuild/DSCN3864.jpg
locknload
08-04-2009, 04:58 AM
Great job, nice attention to detail.
If I may suggest one thing, don't mount your fan directly to the rad. like that. Those zip tie fasteners are fine for the street but you'll have too much vibration off road and those ties may end up tearing up your radiator. On my last truck, I mounted two pieces of strap across the radiator attaching them to those shroud mounting holes. Then I mounted the fan to the straps. It was very solid and I didn't have to worry about the radiator core getting tore up. Like I said, just a suggestion.
A 4cyl 4door... Awesome score!!
PrezidentRedz
08-04-2009, 01:30 PM
Looks good.
What happend to putting the S\C 3.4L in that Runner?
breaker
08-04-2009, 02:24 PM
Looks good.
What happend to putting the S\C 3.4L in that Runner?
That's going into my 90 runner and will be next on the block after this one is 100% so soon it will happen.
breaker
08-04-2009, 02:26 PM
Great job, nice attention to detail.
If I may suggest one thing, don't mount your fan directly to the rad. like that. Those zip tie fasteners are fine for the street but you'll have too much vibration off road and those ties may end up tearing up your radiator. On my last truck, I mounted two pieces of strap across the radiator attaching them to those shroud mounting holes. Then I mounted the fan to the straps. It was very solid and I didn't have to worry about the radiator core getting tore up. Like I said, just a suggestion.
A 4cyl 4door... Awesome score!!
Thanks for the advice I will definitely look into that soon
Littletoy
08-04-2009, 10:03 PM
Nice work. Looks good but does it run? :flipoff:
Just kidding. :)
breaker
08-05-2009, 12:46 PM
Nice work. Looks good but does it run? :flipoff:
Just kidding. :)
Ran into a snag
Th injectors I sent out to get rebuilt are the wrong set so now I got to send in another set and get them done so I am on hold till they get back then I can put the top back together again so I am dead in the water for a few more days.
If anybody needs or wants a set of injectors 23250-35030 I sell them for $82 bucks that's what I have into the rebuild and I will send the data sheet from Witch Hunter with them.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN3629.jpg
yotacrawler87
08-05-2009, 06:38 PM
Im not thrashing you just giving advice so please dont take any of this wrong.The pistons say .50 not .20 as stated in your build.You might want to check into that. Also ive never used the copper spacer u could of built it without that the 0.10 taken off the deck is not going to make a difference on a 22re.
breaker
08-06-2009, 01:52 AM
Im not thrashing you just giving advice so please dont take any of this wrong.The pistons say .50 not .20 as stated in your build.You might want to check into that. Also ive never used the copper spacer u could of built it without that the 0.10 taken off the deck is not going to make a difference on a 22re.
I don't even remotely see how you could think I would think you were trashing me with your observations and I did not even think to take it that way so don't even sweat it. If I was worried about something that stupid I would have never posted anything about this build here.
The .50 is somehow translated into .020 over stock according to both engnbldr who I got the rebuild kit from and also Berkley's machine shop so that's what I believe they are , as for how they come up with 20 over with a .50 stamped is beyond me but the machine shop said order 20 over and this is what came and there is no problem with the pistons in the cylinders that he cut 20 over.
As for the copper head shim , I just take the advise of the guy who did the engine work and I can tell you he has some real knowledge about these motors , he did the build on my friends MOPAR (68) HEMI motor and I can see he did a great job that THING IS PUMPING SOMEWHERE IN THE 800 - 830 H.P. range besides that he threw the spacer in on the machine work so why not use it right? just brings everything back to stock and that can't hurt.
99SR5
08-07-2009, 05:06 PM
that is awesome! i would love to do that to my truck some day
Sleepy Cannon
08-07-2009, 07:15 PM
Hey. When you do your 3.4 swap into your 90runner I could use that info and advise. I 've go an 88runner and an 3.4 I plan to swap into it just not sure of what all to do. I was going to buy an swap kit from Offroad Solutions but they closed. Thanks.
ccannon222
08-07-2009, 10:16 PM
Where did you buy the crank from? Also, did the machine shop clip and bore the crank end of the rods? Using the shim gets your timing back within spec. Some people use an adjust timing gear to correct it when the deck and heads need to be mill. One good thing about milling the deck is it usually offsets the loss of comp/quench when you clip and bore the rods. All in all, that is one sweet looking engine. One of the nicest i've seen.
Chris
breaker
08-08-2009, 03:16 AM
Hey. When you do your 3.4 swap into your 90runner I could use that info and advise. I 've go an 88runner and an 3.4 I plan to swap into it just not sure of what all to do. I was going to buy an swap kit from Offroad Solutions but they closed. Thanks.
I will gladly and if you like I have a extra copy of the ORS swap directions that I could send you (scan it and see what happens)or you could pick up which ever is easiest for you. I don't have a SWAP KIT I have a complete truck and will be using everything from it that I can I did buy a new oil pan for a 3.0 because it was needed to do the swap I will be getting the 3.0 throw out bearing and oil sender and splast pan /pick up from my 3.0 and as much as needed from it I can
Where did you buy the crank from? Also, did the machine shop clip and bore the crank end of the rods? Using the shim gets your timing back within spec. Some people use an adjust timing gear to correct it when the deck and heads need to be mill. One good thing about milling the deck is it usually offsets the loss of comp/quench when you clip and bore the rods. All in all, that is one sweet looking engine. One of the nicest i've seen.
Chris
1. The crank is from Japan motors I believe it is called have to find the bill to make sure
2. Yes he did he was very throe with the machine work and He did my friends 68 HEMI and does lots of racing guy's engines here and has the best reputation around this is the reason I paid more then most would have charged but you have to pay for quality and he said it should be good to go for another 300,000 and if there's any issue's bring it back and he will correct it free of charge.
3. The machine shop also explained that to me and told me not to waist the $100 + bucks on the adjustable gear when for $20 the shim will do the same thing
4. Thank You Very Much It was/is a blast to do it all myself and glad to share as much info as I have learned with anyone needing a hand doing the same thing any time soon.
Also I just got an E-Mail from Witch Hunter and the other rebuilt set is ready and he will be sending them out in the A.M. so I can get back to finishing off the truck.
breaker
08-21-2009, 10:54 AM
OK guy's here she is on one of the first start up's sounds as good as it looks I still need to dial it in but I am very happy with myself and how this all went considering all my info to build this beast was pulled off the Toyota sites on the net and the fact I have never done this before.
After I am sure it is all good I will be putting on the SUPRA AFM I have to help it breath a little better but for now it's just the stock AFM anyway here you go
http://s184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/22re%20rebuild/?action=view¤t=085247.flv
trailtoy
09-19-2009, 10:38 PM
The .50 is somehow translated into .020 over stock according to both engnbldr who I got the rebuild kit from and also Berkley's machine shop so that's what I believe they are , as for how they come up with 20 over with a .50 stamped is beyond me but the machine shop said order 20 over and this is what came and there is no problem with the pistons in the cylinders that he cut 20 over.
The .50 is metric, or one half of a millimeter, which is equal to .020 inches. I'm kind of surprised your machine shop guy didn't figure that one out.
That's a great looking 22RE, I hope you get your $$ worth out of it! Damn, sounds good too!
breaker
09-20-2009, 12:37 AM
The .50 is metric, or one half of a millimeter, which is equal to .020 inches. I'm kind of surprised your machine shop guy didn't figure that one out.
That's a great looking 22RE, I hope you get your $$ worth out of it! Damn, sounds good too!
OH no don't get me wrong the machinist knew what it works out to it was me that could not think fast enough to explain the difference between metric and sae duh lol.
As for the motor Thanks for the complements so far to me it seem's to be well worth the $ invevested it runs 75 mph no problem and holds it pretty good may have to drop to 4th on big hill's but for the most part I a am very happy with the result's, My biggest issue's with it right now are
1.Maryland DMV is bunch of idiots , I am trying to transfer my 90 4runner plates to this one while I do the 3.4 swap on it and they registered it as a pick up and this 93 as a SUV so they will not let me at this point , so far anyway because they say they are two different kinds of vehicle even when they look them both up and see that they are damn near identical.
2.Electric fan relay burned out , waiting on a replacement
3.Exhaust leak where the header and exhaust pipe connect pipe slides over header and I have it clamped down with a exhaust u bolt but it still leaks , going to weld it up this week
and at the same time add the new HI FLOW CAT.
4.Also this week get the front end alined
All in all I'm very happy with the results so far , I have racked up 200 miles on it figuring out all the issue's and still manage to get 145 miles to a half tank so hopefully it will get even better as the break in period get's knocked out and the mileage on the motor gets greater
breaker
11-12-2009, 04:03 AM
SO I was wondering out load again with my friend this evening after getting a couple things done on my truck (cat installed and a little extension of the exhaust) and my friend handed me these
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4184.jpg
I should have known he was up to something when he showed up with them in his hand knowing full well I only drink if it's these or St.Paulie Girl.
So I was over his place yesterday thinking out loud about how I was not really liking the rims on my truck and wondering what they would look like if I painted them black to give them a little depth. Well needless to say he remembered it came over this evening handed the beer to me and said
" I DOUBLE DOG DARE YOU TO PAINT THEM RIMS AND I WILL EVEN TAKE YOU TO GET THE PAINT" well after 3 of them beers and a DDD there was nothing else to do but do it.
So here's what I did and how they turned out like to hear what you all got to say about them, I am kind of not really sure I am thinking maybe just completely blacking them out will look better any input gladly excepted.
tapin up the front's
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4162.jpg
Add a little primer
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4165.jpg
Then a little black
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4168.jpg
End up with the old wheel with a new look
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4174.jpg
Rear wheel looks a little different now too
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4181.jpg
So what do you think?
OK so I pulled the trigger and bought a new front bumper from Trail Gear(model 4 as they call it for 90-95) sold my Smittybuilt for $300 so the cost was $70 with shipping so it was a no brainer anyway here it is
As it arrived via ups and yes they lost it shipped it back to T.G. reshipped it and delivered it a day late so it was typical ups
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Trail%20Gear%20Front%20Bumper/DSCN4189.jpg
Add a little primer(kind looks cool huh)
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Trail%20Gear%20Front%20Bumper/DSCN4192.jpg
Then a little Black let it dry ( will powder coat soon as I can just don't want it to rust while waiting )
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Trail%20Gear%20Front%20Bumper/DSCN4193.jpg
And attach
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Trail%20Gear%20Front%20Bumper/DSCN4203.jpg
Poser pics for some to enjoy and all criticize
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Trail%20Gear%20Front%20Bumper/DSCN4209.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Trail%20Gear%20Front%20Bumper/DSCN4210.jpg
So after trying to figure out the fast flash I decided to take a trip to the hardware store and see what I could do to make the blinkers fit in with marker lights.
So I got to the store and found a few things that I thought would help with the re-invented blinkers/marker light so when I got a set of the bulb holders I could work on the install.
Here's what I picked up
Dremel tool high speed cutter # 199 and a 1" grinding stone # 8215 not shown lol
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4294.jpg
After a little measuring a 5/8 hole bit for the marker light relocation
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4286.jpg
So when I got home I started looking at my 2000 Tacoma roll over that is my 3.4 swap donor and noticed the bulb plugs were still there so I thought why not see if they will fit the 4runner and guess what the bulb holders from a 2000 Taco fit a 93 4runner like a glove and the blinkers blink perfect LIGHT BULB COMES ON OVER MY HEAD!
TIME TO START THE REAL BLINKER MOD SO HERE GO'S
First I pulled the markers lights and corner light housings and start the mod here's everything I will be working with
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4284.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4285.jpg
First step is to drill a new 5/8's hole for the marker light using the the 5/8th's hole bit and move it up closer to the top of the lens housing one side at a time started with the right side double checked to make sure I was at the top and not the bottom.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4289.jpg
Next was time to use the cutter and make the 3 little cuts for the twist in holders
there not pretty like the factory ones but they do work well they have a nice tight fit even without having to turn the thing it fits hard to pull outand seems to be air tight.
[IM
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4290.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4291.jpg
hard to control but with patiance it burned threw the plastic to make a perfect 1" hole and yes next was the cut's for the hold in tabs ic to mareal trick.
Grinding wheel fit perfectly inside the large un drilled area l realt was considered by Toyota or in this case since they are clears the chineese.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4299.jpg
both bulb housings in talk about timing just as I finished up with this one the pizza guy is in the driveway food break
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4300.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4301.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4302.jpg
OK 1/2 hour break over so I repeated the process on the second one and here's how they both turned out now I have to get one new yellow bulb because I bought 1157's and these require 1156's so tomorrow I will get that and bulb and test fit them into the runner and see how they do.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4313.jpg
Not sure if you can make out the two bulbs in the lens but they look pretty good and like they will do a good job when they actuilly get put to the test they seem to have enough space between them I don't think they will interfear with each other.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4314.jpg
If you did not notice I had to cut one side of the bulb holder for the blinker to fit against the side of the housing one side more then the other but both look pretty much like this one.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4309.jpg
So there it is hope maybe someone else can use this info to do there blinker mod
So I went to replace my fuel filter today so that all the oil and filters are changed with the first 1,000 miles on the new motor sounds like a easy and normal thing to do right? NOT!
What a pain in the as$ it is to get to in the truck, it was a breeze when the motor was on the hoist getting ready to drop it in, so after fighting to get at it from the under side for about a half hour I decided to see if I could mount it some where else besides the block.
After looking around for a few minutes and taking the fuel lines lengths into consideration, here is what I came up with( works for me may not be for everyone ) using the passengers side fender wall, the A/C hard line mount worked to mount the filter down, only one mount though but it is still very solid.
Yea I know it's not a Toyota filter but they said it would take 2 days to get one (You would think as popular as the 22re is they would have one or two on hand and not have to order one ) it's a Auto Zone replacement filter.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4158.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4159.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4160.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4161.jpg
breaker
11-14-2009, 04:28 AM
NOTE :
If you are going to do it like I described above then DELETE THE DRILLING OF THE TOP HOLE AND WIDEN ONLY THE EXISTING HOLE TO 1 1/4 OR A BIT SMALLER the top marker light will not fit because it hits the head light frame and requires too much of the frame to be removed and it looks like the frame will be to unstable and will not hold up so here is what I came up with to make it work and yes I will be replacing my corner lights and making it like this so I don't have that 5/8th holes up above
SORRY I HAVE THEM INSTALLED ALREADY AND IT"S 3:30 A.M.SO TAKING A PIC OF THEM IS NOT IN THE CARDS RIGHT NOW NOW PICKED THESE UP AT ADVANCED AUTO FOR $5.30 EACH YOU NEED TWO ONE FOR EACH SIDE.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4326.jpg
cut out the stock marker light socket hole to 1 1/4 or a bit smaller then place these in the big hole but you will have to trim the socket like shown above if you get them to close to the sides like I did. Then you need to take the marker light and blinker lights and cut the stock ends off and wire them up to the new sockets like this
from new socket - NOTE:YOU MAY HAVE TO REVERSE THE WIRING FOR YOUR SETUP MINE IS A 93
yellow to stock blinker power green with red
white to stock marker green with red
black to stock ground white with black from both stock lights all 3 joined together
Shrink wrap all the wire connects together and you are ready to reinstall the lenses and enjoy your new OLHARLEYMAN custom marker/flasher set up!
You want the hole to be tight on the new socket tabs so it stays in place and if you have to like I did because I opened the hole a bit to much you can bend the tabs out a bit to get them to hold tight in the hole they will not sit flush because of the two high points on either side of the valley the stock light sits in but you can silicone the gaps to keep it dry inside and help hold the new housing in place.
These sockets are set up for 1157 dual filiment bulbs and they work AWESOME!
Marker light
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4329.jpg
Marker light and Blinker Blinking at NORMAL RATE
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4328.jpg
breaker
11-17-2009, 04:21 AM
I ordered this today
http://www.winchdepot.com/Winches-Winch-Accessories/XRC-10-Winch-Comp-Series.aspx?t_c=18&t_s=300&t_pt=100702&t_pl=6426&t_pn=S%2fB98210
$549 shipped and a free cover best price I found and learned that Winch Depot and 4wheelpart are the same company tring them both for the best price and the funny thing is that they will under cut each other to make the sell.
Also ordered up this from KAJOBUILT to match the front, I got the optional frame to bumper mounts as well
http://www.trail-gear.com/images/120111-1-k-800.jpg
Optional frame to bumper supports
http://www.trail-gear.com/images/120112-1-k-800.jpg
locknload
11-17-2009, 06:07 AM
I ordered this today
http://www.winchdepot.com/Winches-Winch-Accessories/XRC-10-Winch-Comp-Series.aspx?t_c=18&t_s=300&t_pt=100702&t_pl=6426&t_pn=S%2fB98210
$549 shipped and a free cover best price I found
Not to mention synthetic line and a fairlead. Let us know how it works.
Munky
11-17-2009, 04:29 PM
right on man i have the XRC8 worked great for me the couple of times that i have used it so far
breaker
11-18-2009, 02:47 AM
Got conformation should be here Friday so I will try to get it installed same day and take pics as I go along.
breaker
11-21-2009, 01:42 AM
So I got my winch today from Winch Depot(same company as 4wheelparts.com but $70 cheaper found out by calling both a doing the best price match and the guy I was talking to told me they are both owned by the same company but was surprised at how much cheaper they were then 4W.P. Winch Depot was shipped to my door $549 with a free cover, 4WP.com $619 + $19.99 for cover) I got the XRC Comp series with Synthetic rope instead of the cable which was $399 So here it go's
Here it is as it was dropped off by UPS (finally got a fast delivery from them 3 days from Fl.lol)
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4335.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4336.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4337.jpg
I was surprised to find it was double packaged in the cardboard so that was cool a little extra cushion
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4338.jpg
Then there was all the styrofoam to keep it safe and solid in the second box
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4339.jpg
After unpacking this is what you end up with
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4340.jpg
After following the excellent wiring diagram and wiring it up (the 8k I bought last year and a half ago they had no wiring diagrams guess they got a lot of calls about the wiring and decided it might be a good idea to add some lol)
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4355.jpg
Notice they tag the wires now as well.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4342.jpg
So I went to test fit it in the winch plate and sure enough to tight to fit with out taking the bumper off or at least one side so I could get the extra 2-3" needed to drop it down into place.It is a very tight fit with all the a/c lines and the a/c cooling fan on the right side but she did fit down inside very nicely once she sat in place.Thank goodness my grill was already pre cut because that would have been a pain to do at the same time as the install well not really but at least a big inconvenince.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4343.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4344.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4345.jpg
I could not get the control box to mount on the top of the barrel like they show (plus I will be able to put the cover now when not in use and yea it came in a box all by itself) because I need to cut a few inches of the grill still to fit under so here's what I came up with to hold it over .I also need to shave a 1/4 of the hawles lead thing to fit it under the bottom bar of the bumper so it will fit but it is getting dark out and I have to go do a few things so I will finish this tomorrow and for some reason the site keeps screwing up this thread removing pics and mixing words up so i guess this is a good place to stop for now.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4348.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4349.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4350.jpg
OK I got back around 11:30 and decided to try and finish this up just so happened my friend had a grinder handy and I ground down the top of the Hawles lead so it fit under the tube bar so here it is installed not the best pics cause it was like 12:45 when I got finished but I can or will get a better picture of it in the daylight.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4360.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/Winch%20install/DSCN4359.jpg
1stgenrnrdude
11-21-2009, 02:30 AM
nice!
breaker
11-30-2009, 09:39 PM
Just arrived More to come later
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4376.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4377.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/DSCN4378.jpg
Added a little paint
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4387.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4388.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4389.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4393.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4395.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4400.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4401.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4391.jpg
I got the optional mounts and they do weld to the main lower bar like shown then they can be welded or bolted to the frame in the quarter panel area just did not get pics up of them yet.
One thing I found while priming it that they don't list or show in their pics of the bumper is the mounts for a 5/8's hoop for recovery when needed.
Here is my new receiver Hi Lift Jack mount what you think about this ?
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/hi%20jack%20receiver/DSCN4379.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/hi%20jack%20receiver/DSCN4386.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/hi%20jack%20receiver/DSCN4385.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/hi%20jack%20receiver/DSCN4379-1.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/hi%20jack%20receiver/DSCN4408.jpg
Pretty simple design just a couple bolts and butterfly nuts with a piece of flat steel welded to a piece of receiver tubing and a round piece of steel to slide the jack into to hold the weigh then the butterfly nuts bolts hold the body of the jack and I can put a lock on the inside so no one can just pull it out and run off with it.
1stgenrnrdude
11-30-2009, 10:05 PM
^^ half the pics arent working
breaker
12-02-2009, 01:00 AM
Well the Hi Jack mount needs some work but the rear bumper is now installed, I got to give big thanks to KAJO for hooking me up on the two bumpers great guy to deal with if your looking for things for your trucks.
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4427.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4423.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4422.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4419.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4418.jpg
http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x275/fifty5panhead/rear%20bumper/DSCN4416.jpg
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