Dual case question

[fourwd1]

Question for those of you w/dual cases and some decent lift.

I'm thinking of going dual cases, and I have a pretty steep angle on my rear DS already (but no vibration problems). With dual cases my DS will be shorter, and therefore even steeper.

Did you have DS vibe problems?
If so what did you do to prevent or cure it?

I'm thinking a double Cardan joint at the t-case end, which means I will have to point the pinion upward. I already have a 11* shim to point it down (so it's u-joint is in the same horizontal plane as the t-case u-joint). Maybe turning it around to point it up will suffice? I don't want to cut off and rotate the perches if I don't have to.

[toyotanuts]

I always switch the front and rear drive shaft flanges. Lenghten the front sfat for the rear and shorten the old rear for the front. I also put the long spline on the front.
also your pinion should be 5 degrees lower than your drive shaft which doesn't look like a whole lot but helps when you get axle wrap.

[kajo]

Of the three seperate dual case setups I have had I have never had a problem with driveshaft vibration. My old black runner and my current runner both have run stock budbuilt crosmmembers. The black runner had blocks that angled the rear axle up towards the transfer case. The current runner runs springs with no compensation for the pinion angle (stock perches and my custom ford ranger spring pack). With the truggy/buggy the pinion was pointed at the rear transfer case with the same driveshaft from the black 4Runner, agin it had no noticable driveshaft vibration (However max speed ever was only about 35 MPH on dirt roads)

Both rear driveshafts have been front Toyota driveshafts lengthened to fit. The C/V joint seems to be the key. If I remember correctly my rear driveshaft is about 35" long.

[fourwd1]

... My old black runner and my current runner both have run stock budbuilt crosmmembers. The black runner had blocks that angled the rear axle up towards the transfer case. ... With the truggy/buggy the pinion was pointed at the rear transfer case with the same driveshaft from the black 4Runner, agin it had no noticable driveshaft vibration (However max speed ever was only about 35 MPH on dirt roads)
... The C/V joint seems to be the key. ...

Thanks for the info John.

My angle may be a little more due to the 2" drrivetrain lift BudBuilt crossmember. And I need it to be vibe free for highway use.

So you do/did run a CV (double Cardan) joint at the t-case end of the DS?

[kajo]

Thanks for the info John.

My angle may be a little more due to the 2" drrivetrain lift BudBuilt crossmember. And I need it to be vibe free for highway use.

So you do/did run a CV (double Cardan) joint at the t-case end of the DS?[/quote]

Yes I do/did run a CV joint at the t-case end of the DS. You are up a little late tonight.

The black runner had about a 6" suspension lift with the stock budbuilt with no issues and it was my daily driver at the time. I am guessing you should be OK.

[fourwd1]

OK, sounds good.

When I have the DS shortened I'll have them put on a CV joint from an old front DS and turn the shims around to point the pinion up.

Yeah I am up late. We're doing some special testing at work and I'm doing the graveyard shift for a while.

[Eric_N]

Where do you guys take your driveshafts to get worked on?

[BeaterToyota]

I took mine to Chantilly Spring Works (or something like that) in Sterling, VA. It's a heavy truck/dump truck spring shop. They have also made u-bolts to custom lengths in about 10 minutes.

The usual costs for driveshafts are about $50-$75 to shorten and about $75-$100 to lengthen.

[fourwd1]

Where do you guys take your driveshafts to get worked on?

Peters Springs in downtown Baltimore.
Get my U bolts made there too.